Lenzsér-Mezei Kata
Designing buildings, I think on forms, functions and spaces. Designing jewelry, I concern the form. I like to create objects for exhibition, for in this case I can go beyond the sensitive issue of the ‘wearability’. Decisive architects and architectural motifs inspired my exhibition set “Adornitecture”. Buildings of Carlo Scarpa, Italian architect are characterized by the unexpectedly appearing details, related to crafts. One of his medals refers to a hollowed-out door corner, another to a mosaic window. .
The golden whale of Frank O. Gehry above the Barcelona harbour gave the idea to use copper mesh. Seeing the brave and unusual structures, the network of steel cables, amazing bridges and halls of Santiago Calatrava, we can think that the modern architecture is nothing more than an enlarged jewelry.
In my undergraduate years I worked in a Florentine architect studio. Even today I benefit from the spirit what I met there. Being an architect, I have a beautiful and interesting job. But, I started to learn the goldsmiths’ craft, because I want to realize my ideas without using computer graphics.
It is a great experience to create my objects with hand and tools. At the goldsmith vocational school my exam metalwork was a Mokume-gane bracelet. This Japan-based technology bases on combined use of various metals.
Meanwhile I applied for jewelry design course in Milan. Teacher-artists consulted individually with me, being like a private student. I designed and drew from morning to night. I got my degree at maximum points. My chosen theme was “The Silver and its companions”. In addition to silver, in my collection created copper, precious stones, wood, textile, paper and perspex were featured.
At home, I realized several jewelry design of Milan. This medusa necklace was purchased by a young architect as a Christmas gift for his sweetie. I have not found a due yellow stone for my yellow bracelet, but my master in Milan is keenly waiting it.
The jewelry is very personal. I need to know who will receive it. On the finger of a lady judge, such prongs on a ring carry prestige. This green tourmaline, inlayed into a half-cut green gingko leave will accentuate the green eyes of the owner.
The trends in design jewelry are fairly variable. Extravagant pieces are looked for in Germany, England, or in the States, whereas the Italian taste is conservative, and restrained against the provocative outfits. In this country the unique jewelry is becoming perhaps more popular, but the classic gold jewelry still has great appreciation.
For the Week of Design, I compiled a collection of concrete: “The Reversed Rings”. I played with material structures: what surface can be made of impressing the linden leaves from the garden, the lace, the leather, the plexiglass, pearls, or metal chips.
My medal-obelisks are the part of this architectural experiment. When not dealing with buildings, I make jewelry without limits, working totally free. I like to construct such special forms and surfaces that surpass the imagination.
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