Nyíri Katalin

nyiri_katalin-1-274x181My grandfather lived in a small village of Gesztely, at the bank of the Hernád river. Once he went to the bar, and asked, who had a loom. In olden times every house had a weaving loom in this region. Somebody had a walnut-made one in the loft, at lest 100 years old. Just had to replace some pieces. This time I was at the university.


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Just at the entrance, a four-warp loom. “Comparing this to the new types, they knows more and it is more comfortable to work with them. For example, these can spin up the warp end. Normally this warp beam contains thread of 60-100 m long. I bring the warp beam to Pápa (a town in W Hungary), there is a weaver master, Péter Lőrincz. After I made the dyeing, he reels the thread with his devices. He teaches, as well as produces and services looms.”

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“Using the same warp beam, you can weave countless colours and patterns. Wefts of various colours can produce different colours and tones, while effect woof threads cause special surfaces. This is the bouclé thread; I made it at the thread factory, a decorative filament is spun around the basic thread. “

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“Apart threads of cotton or wool, I use elastic Lycra and water-shrunk ones.”


“I wind the weft thread with this old, converted drilling machine. I must care with this shuttle! Sometimes it flies away. Its tip even perforated the floor tile as well. “

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“I vary the types of weaving, for example, the twill or satin. But, I make ikkat as well, colouring the warp end. I make wall carpets by rag weaving. I use a full of warp beam in six to eight months.”

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“I graduated as fabric and fashion designer. Before I received my M.A. (Master of Arts) degree, the industrial background vanished. I had to solve anything from myself. I am designing, manufacturing myself, and I must also take care of the sales. “

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The self-made fabric has a great advantage: the material and the form are produced together. I know where it should be cut so that the cloth is served by the weaving. Hand weaving comes together with the minimal cut. Each culture had its simple cut lines, that is, the veil-type cloths formed by folds. Greek, Persian, Indian costumes are taking on this base.

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These pieces have their seasons, and sometimes folding is not fashionable. Using a leftover piece of homespun textile I can perk a simple, everyday piece up. I make showpieces as well. Brides, looking for wedding costume, come to me not for a white crinoline. I set up a costume of layers, which can be worn later at other occasions.

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It is difficult to characterize our dress culture. Sure, the costume reflects the wearer’s self-knowledge and self-confidence. We are not well in this both regards. The Nordic countries exemplify succeeded to apply their traditions in dressing, in house culture, and, generally, in design.

25/4/2013 Telki





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